Cycling in Stunning Slovenia

Author: Mariza

28 July 2017

Today we cycled almost a hundred kilometres inside a storybook setting. Slovenia is the place where all those classic children stories took place. It is beyond beautiful!

We were on our bikes early this morning, all excited and full of energy. On our backs we carried our picnic lunch, water and a few snacks. Through valleys and over mountain passes. We cycled through the most gorgeous little villages, all consisting of alpine cottages with lush flowers hanging from every balcony, sitting in every windowsill and decorating every vegetable garden. My kind of place, for sure!!

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I tried to take pictures, form my bike mostly, but it doesn’t do any justice to what we saw and experienced. It snows here in winter and skiing is the activity of choice then. But in summer, every meadow is filled with wild flowers. The entire place is green and lush. The mountains are spectacular in the background.

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For lunch we simply drove our bikes into a meadow and sat down under a tree. The stuff fairy tales are made of. And we kept getting overwhelmed by the beauty around us. It is unreal.

We were really tired and rather sore when we finally arrived home at 6:20pm. We celebrated with delicious ice cream. Home made spaghetti bolognese was the perfect comfort food. We had the most spectacular day and our hearts are full to the brim.

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– Mariza   –

 

Montenegro to Serbia by Train

Author: Mariza

Good bye Montenegro. It’s been a pleasure. Especially your mountains.

We boarded a train early in the morning in Bar, a coastal town in Montenegro. Equipped with enough food for an army, we settled down in our compartment for our twelve hour journey. (It ended up being a lot longer!)

An entire day of drinking in the most beautiful scenery. What a joy! All through the mountains of Montenegro we snaked. And we took far too many photographs. Mostly me. I just could not help myself. Such beauty!!

This was our day for school work and writing blog posts. Not that the scenery around us was helping me get stuck in. The rest were doing a better job.

Dramatic mountains, lush green meadows and emerald rivers for miles and miles. Quant little villages on the slopes of green hills. Vegetable gardens and corn fields – every village has these.

We crossed the border into Bosnia and later Serbia. I feel so rich to see and experience all these amazing places. And to think I am sharing it with my husband and four children. Incredible blessing!!

We arrived in Belgrade hours after the scheduled time. We carried our backpacks for three and a half kilometres to our apartment where our friendly host was waiting for us. Apparently this is normal for Serbian trains, so he wasn’t taken by surprise.

It has been a long day, but very memorable. Train rides are the best!

– Mariza –

Road Tripping in Montenegro

Author: Mariza

24 July 2017

We hired a tiny white Renault Cleo for a few days of exploring the Montenegro mountains. What a wonderful adventure! How we squeezed all our backpacks and six people into that tiny vehicle is still beyond me. We had heaps of fun, though, despite the tummy bug and lack of space.

The mountains are spectacular! Dramatic limestone cliffs contrasted with lush green trees of different kinds. Deep canyons with clear, bright green rivers at the bottom. Breathtakingly beautiful! No picture can do it any justice. It has to be experienced, breathed in. We did try to capture some of this magnificence, although the measures we took are better left unpublished.

We stayed in a different village each night. Our accommodation ranged from old stone cottages to wooden mountain cabins, each time in a stunning, unique setting. Sometimes on the bank of a river and other times in a cherry and apple orchard.

Hiking in those mountains is an experience I will never forget. The landscape changes are vast and dramatic. There are too many incredible photo opportunities. Many hours are not enough to drink in the gloriousness.

One of my most precious memories is the six of us lying in a meadow high up in the mountains, talking and laughing and having dry bread and wine. Time stood still as we exchanged heart secrets, lying on our backs, sunshine on our faces.

Swimming in the famous Black Lake was another highlight. Surrounded by mountains, the cool water was the perfect ending to a long, exhausting walk.

We know this, but we realise once again, we love nature and we love remote places.

– Mariza –

 

 

A Forgotten Little Town In Montenegro

Author: Mariza

21 July 2017

In the Lake Skada region, on the banks of a river, sits the forgotten town of Rijeka Crnojevića. In the middle of nowhere. A beautiful, sad and charming place. It must have been quite something in its hay day. The dilapidated stone buildings and -streets attest to this. There is still a wide promenade on the river bank with stone benches and walls and a fountain. But it hasn’t been maintained for a long time. Weeds are everywhere and wild grass stand tall between the concrete blocks. It’s a sad picture.

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I love places like this. Forgotten places. Places with a story. People affected by life and war and all sorts of tragedies. People who have lost hope. I feel for these people. I feel intense sadness as I drink in the devastation.

I wonder what can be done to restore this place. I long to see laughter in the dull eyes and on the unfriendly faces. I know that it is possible. How I would love to witness a total transformation here.

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We rent a little stone house, right on the promenade and in the middle of all the village activities. There are not too many of these. Mostly people sitting around, talking, smoking, looking defeated. We have the perfect view. From our little balcony we can hear every conversation (not that we can understand it), see what’s happening in all three restaurants, have the small river boats right in front of us and have the very best view of the iconic old stone bridge.

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Stari Most (Old Bridge)

We hire kayaks and make our way down the river towards Lake Skada. We have already gulped down several glasses of water from the tap. We now realise that was a mistake. There is fat / oil on the water. And it is rather dirty. All our swim plans disappear instantly. As we make our way further and further away from our village, the water gets better, even beautiful. But we have seen too much and now we can see too little. We’re not going overboard.

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In the early evening we take a stroll down the old promenade. It stirs all sorts of emotions in my heart. We have dinner at the cheapest of the three restaurants. We sit under the grapevines on the river bank. The local kebabs (not on a skewer and not like anything you would imagine, more like elongated meatballs) is served with homemade fries. We order a large salad, which turned out to be incredibly good. We ask for tap water. Then the confirmation. The tap water is not fit for human consumption. Oh boy!! As we stand on the bridge a little later we see that all the fatty restaurant kitchen water goes straight into the river.

That evening Eulain comes down with a tummy bug of note. The next day of road tripping includes lots of vomiting in plastic bags. Kali, Ruzow and I are next in line, followed by Jarik. Esto is the last man standing. We shall be more careful in future.

Rijeka Crnojevića is a lovely little place and it will forever be in my heart.

– Mariza –

 

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Author: Mariza

16 July 2017

Stunningly beautiful, but way overpriced and far too many tourists.

Our very kind hostess welcomed us at the ferry terminal and walked us up the steep hill to our apartment. Daniela and her family have gone the extra ten miles in their hosting efforts, leaving all sorts of treats for us.

A typical socialist era apartment building has been in the family for generations. The family now mainly rent it out to tourists over the summer months. The main source of income around here. The famSAMSUNG CSCily live in a small village outside Dubrovnik from where they operate their laundry business. Renting business space in the city is simply too expensive. They drive in every day to pick up and deliver laundry. Mostly from hotels, restaurants and tourist apartments. The mother is a civil engineer who cannot find a job in that field. It is tourism or nothing, she tells us.

After exploring the old city, we end up on a beach with rye bread and a bottle of red wine. A great spot for enjoying the sunset and avoiding the crowds. We watch the boats sail into the harbour. And we reflect on how very blessed we are.

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We don’t do any tours or touristy things that cost money in this expensive city. We do wander through the beautiful limestone streets of the old city with thousands of tourists, though. And we enjoy the magic of rows and rows of little tables lining the narrow alleys. This is especially wonderful at night. We also walk around the harbour cove and swim in the cool, blue water. The beaches are nothing special considering where we’ve recently been. We have been spoilt!

As our bus snakes out of Dubrovnik we have a last glance over the old city. It’s impressive walls making a stunning contrast with the deep blue ocean around it.

Our next stop is Kotor, Montenegro.

– Mariza –

 

Prižba, Korčula

Author: Mariza

12 July

An ink blue ocean, dotted with little islands – that is the view from our apartment in Prižba on the island of Korčula, Croatia. Sitting on the porch drinking in this view became the main activity for four days. Combine this with 30kn (6 Aussie dollar) locally produced red wine and you’ve got it made.

I have to confess something here. After our incredible experience in the tiny village of Račišće, we were disappointed at first. Shameful, I know. Here we are in paradise and finding our hearts left behind in an old stone village.

We did, however, find a space in our full hearts for this richer, more modern haven rather quickly. It is truly beautiful and the ocean spectacular. We swam, played pine cone cricket and kayaked around the little Adriatic islands. And we once again met beautiful people.

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Our hosts, Daniel and Katiča are the nicest, warmest people. The kind you instantly want to be friends with. We had lovely conversations and Daniel took Jarik and Ruzow out fishing on his boat. A huge highlight for my beautiful boy! He was chatterboxing on a total high for over an hour upon returning. So wonderful to see. My personal highlight was having coffee on the stairs overlooking the ocean followed by a final sunset swim and chat with Katiča. I can’t believe we’re leaving early tomorrow morning.

Our last Prižba dinner was a feast consisting of fish we bought from a local fisherman after our morning run. Jarik and the kids did a fabulous job and had loads of fun cleaning and preparing it.

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As I watch the little islands disappear as darkness drives out the pinkish blue sky, my heart is grateful. The first bright stars are already appearing. Soon the moon will hang over the ocean too. I am so very blessed.

– Mariza –

 

 

Račišće – My Favourite Place on Earth

Author: Mariza

12 July

We found it. Our retirement village. Račišće, a tiny sea side speck of a place on the Croatian island of Korčula.

Not even our way too eventful journey to this little town could dampen our instant besottedness with it. This is where we would love to spend the rest of our days.

Over the past few days, Jarik and I have devised all sorts of plans to acquire property and make a way to live here, even with four school aged hockey/soccer/rugby/cricket/tennis/anything sport related crazy children in tow. This place is really THAT amazing. Our kids feel very rooted in Brisbane, Australia. Us parents, we do too, and we don’t. I think we’ve been uprooted enough times to make us realise we could carve out a fabulous home anywhere on the planet. And our hearts have been expanded enough to realise there will always be room for more precious people. We know that every relationship enriches us and provides us with an opportunity to feel and to love and to share. And will make our family expand in the most wonderful way.

We are daydreaming, yes. But we’re also having so many reality checks along the way. We are in the privileged position to be able to settle and make a living (in some places less glamorous than others) almost anywhere in the world. How incredible is that?! We could even have an impact. Help transform an entire community.

Račišće is the most beautiful, charming little village I have ever seen. Behind it lies lush green hills and in front of it the clearest, bluest, most beautiful ocean. All the buildings are built out of stone or cleverly covered in stone facades. All the roofs are the same colour. The entire village overlooks the beautiful bay, containing a small harbour full of lovely little boats. In the distance is the mainland.

Our apartment is smack bang in the middle of the village, front row, right on the water and on the third floor. We have a balcony the entire length of the place. From every bed in the three bedrooms, opening onto the balcony, you have an ocean view. STUNNING!!

Our hosts, Martin and Danka, are the kindest, friendliest, most wonderful people. Family straight away. We start our relationship around a table in their backyard with homemade grappa and sherry.

We meet another Croatian family on our first night. They have been vacationing here for the past eight years. We can totally see why. We will most definitely join them some time in the future.

I think every place after this will be a disappointment. It has been and is an absolute dream come true. I will forever treasure the precious memories created here with my family. Swimming in the sea of glass, jumping from the harbour wall, discovering hidden limestone beaches. Drinking in sunrises and sunsets in breathtakingly beautiful settings. I have totally lost my heart.

– Mariza –

 

Croatia – Split & Omiš

Author: Mariza

It is high summer season in Split as we arrive from the airport by bus. Vines and olive trees and crystal blue ocean along the way. The first part of Split as you approach from the bus station and cruise liner harbour is very touristy. Holiday festivity sort of air, but nothing too impressive. Except the glorious ocean. That is impressive from every angle. Ink blue water, even in the harbour. My kind of water!! (As opposed to brown… as in my beloved home city).

As we make our way through the interesting little streets to our beautiful old apartment, we start falling in love with Split. Drinking in the perfect view from every window of our gorgeous abode concludes the process. We have lost our hearts.

Over the course of three days we explore the old, stone built city. Dating from the second century. We get lost in the tiny streets with alleyways and stone staircases in all directions. Beautiful stone buildings with orangey brown tiled roofs and green shutters. Everything looks similar, but different. Unique pieces creating a perfect whole. I LOVE it!

We go for long runs along the shoreline, discovering beautiful pebbly beaches. We bathe in the glorious blue ocean and dry ourselves in the bright, warm sun. We laugh and dream and drink in a beautiful old wold city.

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Our next stop is the lovely little town of Omiš. We find ourselves in a fabulous two bedroom apartment overlooking the old city. From our balcony we drink in the morning and evening colour changes over impressive limestone cliffs. We eat and drink and run and swim, all with the beautiful blue ocean at our feet.

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On a particularly adventurous day, we walk from sea side village to sea side village, only in our swimmers and a sarong. We dive into the crystal clear water again and again in different spots, one more beautiful than the next. And we fall ever deeper in love with this beautiful place.

At one point, sun kissed and nicely tired, we decide to have some refreshments on the beach. Great was our shock, horror and disappointment as we discover everything is cash only and the closest cash machine is in the town we are staying, now a day walk away. Jarik brought only enough cash for the local bus back and a credit card. Oh my!!

A friendly beach bar owner offer to have us drink on the house and have us bring the money the following day. We politely decline. We will never see this place again, unfortunately. We leave for a nearby island in the morning.

Making a long, exhausting story short, we ended up getting a free lift in a tiny car. Not before waiting at a bus stop for over an hour and a two hour uphill walk in the blazing sun before that. But all is well that ends well. We made it back with time to spare for another walk up a river gorge. Crazy family, I know.

Early the next morning we were up and ready for our next adventure. This one turning out a whole lot worse and more adventurous than ever expected!! An update to follow from the pen of one of our surviving children.

– Mariza –

 

 

A Full Heart

Author: Mariza

28 June

How is it that we make connections with people, don’t see them for five years and pick up right where we left off? How wonderful to feel the same love for and connection with their now almost adult children. Precious beyond words.

Our time in America was way too short, but oh so wonderful. What was supposed to be a quick stopover turned into two weeks of cramming in years worth of togetherness and very little sleep. There were many dear friends we would have loved to have seen, but we simply didn’t have time. Those few we did see was such a treat, though.

Landing in Miami was an experience I would rather forget. The I-am-too-important-and-need-to-prove-it-through-my-power-game immigration official kept us there for two hours, sent us for a secondary interrogation and made us miss our flight to Atlanta. To say I was livid would be an understatement. We arrived in Atlanta way later than planned, but made up for it by not sleeping for two days. Too much to share, too little time. Not that any amount of time would ever be enough with these special friends.

Another family drove all the way from Chicago to have coffee with us. The last time we saw them was at their wedding, ten years ago. Now they have two gorgeous kiddies, one with the chubbiest cheeks in the universe. I wanted to eat her!! We met Gene as a young woman in London. Family at first sight.

Our departure flight came way too soon. Tom and Michelle drove us to the airport at 4am to buy us another hour together. We have lived through so much in such a short time in Houston. How good it is to see our friends doing so well and being in such a great place. Our hearts are forever grateful.

Our next visit was with our dear friends “die Wesselse”. We were at university in beautiful Stellenbosch at the same time, rediscovered one another in our first week in Houston and became so much more than friends in the two and a half years on opposite sides of that city. Eight days of skiing in Colorado and surviving hurricane Ike under one roof definitely sealed our friendship. It’s been five years since our last visit, but nothing has changed between us. Only the kids – unrecognisable, especially some with huge hands and feet who like to look down on me while hugging! Words are insufficient when it comes to these precious ones. Our heart people.

The McKurtis clan, also a family of six, housed us for one cherished night. Here we were spoilt rotten and the kids sacrificed the start of their holiday camp to be with us. Again way too little time. We love these people to bits!! They were the first ones to invite us to their home for lunch in Houston and that was the beginning and the end. A great family friendship that only gets better over time.

We saw two other families, very significant in our lives. All too briefly!! But it was wonderful, wonderful!! And again a shock to see the kids so grown up. Rodgers and Deckers we soooooooooo appreciate you!!!! Sandi has been a key and integral part of our lives for the past eight years since leaving Houston. And oh to see and hug my precious Mike! I LOVE that man!!

On our way to the airport we took a chance, which nearly made us miss our flight. We drove to the Pieszchalas to knock on their door. If anyone can appreciate a surprise drop in, it would be these people. We share so many special memories with this family. From deep, meaningful discussions to sundowners on their newly acquired land and many a meal in interesting places. Christy’s face when she opened the door, followed by screaming which brought Caylin out, was priceless. I only wish we had more time with them. Next year in Brisbane we will, though. I cannot wait!! Special, special friends!!

Charlotte, North Carolina and the home of our beloved Lains made up for all the discomfort we suffered in South America. Vineyards and wine tasting and s’mores on the fire outside, an early birthday celebration for Ruzow’s 12th with delectable cupcakes and sleeping in palatial rooms with luxury beds. 😊 🇺🇸

Mrs Lainie, Joe and girls, you outdid yourselves!! Thank you for embracing and enduring an entire day of shopping with the six of us. And for all the special moments (too many to mention!) we shared. Love you to eternity!!

We left Charlotte at 4 in the morning and drove to New York City via Washington DC. We spent Ruzow’s 12th birthday on the road, only arriving in New York around 10pm. Looooooooong day!!

The excitement of arriving in New York City is not even quenchable by severe exhaustion. After an eventful bag drop in a dodgy street in Manhattan, we finally handed our rented car back at 11pm. And yes, believe it if you can, we WALKED fifty (yes, five zero!!) blocks back to our apartment. Upon arrival, after midnight, we lined up for a turn in the one and only bathroom for a quick shower. Our tiny room containing three double beds (and nothing else, not even air) was clean and comfortable. The rest of the apartment houses all sorts of interesting people, crammed into three more rooms. Great value for money, though, especially considering our proximity to Central Park, Time Square and downtown  New York.

We managed to squeeze a magnitude of highlights into our short visit to New York. A six hour walking tour of the city, a twilight cruise down The Hudson and to the Statue of Liberty, a night visit to Time Square and a run through Central Park to name but a few. We concluded our NYC adventure with expensive bagels on Madison Avenue before catching the subway to JFK International Airport.

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America oh America! How we wish we had more time.

Mariza –

 

 

Quito and The End of South America

WP_20170612_12_44_46_RichAuthor: Mariza

13 June

After the initial rocky start, Quito turned out a lovely city. Our new accommodation was great and we enjoyed delicious breakfast in the restaurant below us every morning. We went on a four hour walking tour of the historical centre with a great guide who taught us a lot about the city and the history of Ecuador. We’ve learnt that is the best way to find your feet in a new place.

Over the last few days we saw many beautiful cathedrals (Quito has seven in one street!), visited the presidential palace, visited the Middle of The World museum and had our feet in both the northern and southern hemisphere at the same time.

Quito marked the end of our South American adventure. And what an adventure it has been! Loved it!

We were up at 2 this morning and left our hostel in the back of a truck at 3am. This was organised by our hostess and cost us an arm and a leg. We were piled into the back of a cooler truck and driven to the airport with the one back door open for oxygen. It ended up being mostly exhaust fumes. Maybe a good thing as we needed something for the nerves. Jarik nearly fell out the back when we made a sudden turn. We had a good chuckle about our interesting transportation in the past three months and going in and out of Ecuador on the back of a truck.

We are on our way to Miami now. By plane. Very civilised. Then to Atlanta. This is going to be a long day! But the reward at the end of it will be more than worth it. America here we come!

– Mariza –

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