Month: April 2017

El Calafate – Argentina

Author: Jarik

The city of EL Calafate is the tourist gateway to the Argentinean side of Patagonia. The landscape is mostly scrub covered undulating plains with cattle, roaming guanaco’s and anchored by the majestic Andes in the distance. We were surprised at how “touristy” El Calafate is. The main road through the town is lined with upmarket restaurants, gift shops, little arts-and-crafts walkways and stalls, and numerous hotels, hostels and travel agencies. The homes in the neighbourhoods are mostly well kept and set further apart from each other than in the Chilean cities. It reminded us of a weekend destination close to a major city such as Knysna (South Africa) or Noosa (Australia).

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We were hosted by a lovely couple in their home on a quieter section of the main road, ten minutes from the main bus terminal, two minutes from the tourist section and right next door to a bakery, which we discovered, had the best empanadas. An ideal location for the always-hungry van Rensburg clan!

The picture our hosts painted of Argentina was, however, very different to what we saw. It seems that El Calafate received special attention from the President a number of years ago, with a lot of money spent on the town to upgrade infrastructure, establish new neighbourhoods and boost the economy. This is in stark contrast to the rest of the region and have resulted in an influx of people lured by the apparent opportunities. The town is solely dependent on tourism, but with double digit inflation, prices are high (even in US$ terms) and business is slow. People are generally struggling to make ends meet. Most people are holding down two or more jobs, but with prices increasing markedly every month, even this is not always enough.

We took a bus to the Perito Moreno glacier, about 90 minutes from the town. Although it started to drizzle while we were there, the 120m high wall of ice was still a spectacular sight. We walked around the northern flank admiring the different hues of blue of the cracks and crevices and occasionally, witnessed large pieces of ice break away and cause waves in the lake at the foot of the slow moving mammoth.

After the afternoon out in the cold, we were glad to get back to our lodging and a few yummy empanadas!

– Jarik –

0

Up to the Torres

Author: Ruzow

We started our hike up the mountains to Torres Lookout at about 8am. Throughout the hike, I saw many beautiful and amazing things. The mountains were full of beautiful flora, fauna and beautiful streams and a river.

We climbed up the rocky track and came to a part of the path where we had to walk through a narrow stretch right on the edge of a high cliff above the river. It was very exciting. Soon we came to the Chileano ranger station. There we only had a look around, filled our water bottles and set off on our journey again.

During the entire hike, we had to cross many streams and a river. Every time we came to a stream, we would have to scramble across, trying hard not to get wet. Esto slipped almost every time. Some parts of the track were muddy, and others were just rocky, but altogether, it made it more of an adventure.

Then we arrived at the final stretch of the hike. It was rocky and very rough going. We slowly but surely clambered up. For most of the time, we were using our hands to grip the rocks in front of us. We had to go up single file for most of the way. I slipped twice and hurt my arm, luckily not badly.

Finally, we arrived at the lookout, the view was astounding!!!! There were large boulders around a lake. This lake was at the foot of the three peaks. It was beautiful. I saw the mountains around these peaks were of different colours and some were covered in snow. This hike was the best I have ever done.

– Ruzow –

3

Family in Natales

Author: Mariza

2 April 2017

Our ferry was there to pick us up, along with a whole horde of others, some equally surprised by the change in ferry times, at 6:35pm from magical Torres Del Paine. We craned our necks this way and that to drink in the spectacular sights all around us. A sundrenched peak over here and a snow-capped mountain over there. Too much beauty to absorb.

On the other side of the lake we scrambled to secure six seats on a bus to Puerto Natales. The first bumpy stretch saw both Kali and me green with motion sickness. All the dry biscuits and mints in the world could not have made it better. I even had my Annie’s motion sickness wristband on, but to no avail. More than three hours of this – oh my!

We all had a little snooze on the bus. Esto was not happy to be dragged off his seat and have a heavy backpack loaded onto his back. After sleepwalking for the first few blocks, he was wide awake by the time we reached our destination.

Even though we arrived in the middle of the night, our friendly hosts were there in full force to welcome us into their home. The mum and dad speak no English, so the daughter played translator. Alison is seventeen and a lovely, friendly girl. The parents are warm, wonderful people with a heart as big as the wide open spaces around this gorgeous little town. What a treasure we have found in these beautiful people.

On Sunday morning we all had a sleep-in. Bliss!! People in Chile go to bed late and get up late too. We sat eating and talking around the breakfast table for a long time. Precious, precious, precious!!! We reluctantly left the warm house to walk to the bus ticket office. We made it just in time for the siesta, so we had to go back after 4pm.

We wandered through the streets of this interesting little town. A house next to a shop next to a bar next to a house next to a mechanic next to a house next to an adult club next to a school… all mixed together to form a colourful neighbourhood.

Our host, Gloria, went out of her way to prepare a traditional Chilean meal for her guests. Delicious!! We found ourselves squeezed in around a table with two North Koreans, two Swedish, one Argentinean, three Chileans and a fluffy dog. Happy babbling in different languages and lots of hand signage made for a very festive family dinner. Again we sat long and talked much, drinking in the richness of being together.

Everything from washing dishes to brushing teeth is a shared affair, accompanied by much laughter and arm waving. What we experienced in that cosy home is beyond description. Community like we love it. Thank you Oscar, Gloria and Alison for opening your hearts and home to us.

– Mariza –

 

7

The pinnacle

Author: Jarik

You can fill a thousand postcards with the vast landscapes of Patagonia. We were blessed to experience this spectacular treasure of nature in perfect weather and with the colour of autumn in the trees. Our 10km (one-way) hike from the Cerro Norte Refugio (lodge), where we spent our first night, to the base of the Torres del Paine (three towers) was truly breathtaking. The hike follows the course of a crystal clear river, taking you deep into a valley flanked by large, rugged black mountains with snow capped peaks. Every rise or bend holds a surprise as the trail twists slowly upwards through forest and over boulder strewn clearings. At some points the path barely clings to the steep sides of the black shale with the river negotiating a path through the landscape far below. After about 9km’s, the trail makes a sharp left turn and then basically follows the flow-path of an ice-melt stream, gaining 180m in elevation over very rough terrain. We pursue the seemingly vertical, wet path over white boulders, upwards towards a large field of rock debris high up in the mountain. The views towards the valley below are spectacular. And then, climbing around another large boulder, the “torres” in full view. Nothing can prepare you for the majesty of seeing the white spires towering another 2000m above you  against the blue sky and surrounded by black mountains. Their blue glacier lake contributes to the sense of sacredness, with the vertical cliffs being so close, but yet still unattainable on the other side of the icy water.

– Jarik –

3

Torres del Paine

Author: Mariza

Wow, wow, super WOW!!! Words and pictures cannot do justice to the majesty and glorious, breathtaking beauty of Torres Del Paine.

More than ten years ago, Jarik flew over Torres Del Paine and decided that was something he would love to see with his family one day. Today that dream came true. We were up before six after spending the night under two down duvets. Nice and cosy on our bunk beds. Sunrise is only at eight, so breakfast at seven happened in the blackness of night. A great and wonderful surprise awaited us when we walked out of the cafeteria. The three towers were clearly visible with the most beautiful blue sky around it. This is BEFORE sunrise! All of a sudden I couldn’t wait to get walking.

The day’s journey went from incredible to beyond description. How many wonderful, diverse sights can a person see in just one day??!! I distinctly remember how I wished this journey would never, ever end about two hours into our walk. The incredible sights all around us made me feel like my heart was about to explode.

We walked (climbed for one really challenging stretch) for just over 20km for the day. It took us eight hours, including an hour for lunch at THE most glorious spot. I feel really proud of our kids. Kali 13, Ruzow 11, Eulain 8 and Esto 6 were the only children in the entire park. They out-walked the strongest and fittest of people.  Jarik and I were stopped by a good number of VERY impressed people. They could not believe that our kids managed that walk, never mind acing it!

Day two took us around a glorious glacier lake. Ice blue has a whole new meaning to me. I have never seen water so clear and blue and beautiful. The glorious mountains rise up out of the water on every side. On a granite pebble beach we played and got our hands in the water. Definitely too cold for a swim! No sand or mud, only pebbles on the bottom of the crystal clear lake.

A freezing night in a canvas igloo and a toe strangling sleeping bag was an interesting experience. The view over the lake, however, more than made up for any discomfort or chill blisters.

On day three we ventured up a stunning valley. Again I thought it was the most beautiful hike I’ve ever done. We saw our first glacier and experienced the thrill of watching a piece of ice break off with a thunderous noise. We had many, many stream crossings, some more tricky than others. Some of us got our shoes wet and muddy, but there was no time to stop or get upset about it. Upwards and onwards! The other side of the Torres getting ever closer and more glorious.

For three days we walked 20km a day, and most of this either up or down a hill. The incredible sights and ever changing landscapes now forever a precious, priceless memory. The sight of our lodge for our final night in the park, surrounded by mountains on three sides and a lake in the front was a great highlight. It reminded me of boarding school. Food is served from huge containers as we line up with our trays. We fill an entire six bunk bed dorm. The sight of heaters inspired us to wash our only pair of long pants. The heaters never went on. So we did our last day of walking in shorts. Freezing!!

We came up close and personal  to a glacier on our final day. The exhilaration of seeing that glorious white glacier as we came up a huge hill – unbelievable!

The first day of April could not pass uneventfully. We ran most of the way – up and down that valley – to have a whole hour for lunch in the sun before catching the 1pm ferry. We saw the 12pm ferry go off in the distance as we made our way to the clearing on the banks of the lake. I noticed it left early. After our picnic we made our way to the jetty to wait for our ferry. Weird that there is still no sign of our approaching ferry and also no other people. And then… April fools!!! The ferry time table changed today. Not that we were even aware of the fact that we’re now in April. We have lost track of dates and days. But on a big brown board in big white letters, our folly gets exposed. There are now only two ferries a day, one at 11:30am (the early 12pm one we saw) and a 6:35pm one. Great!!

We settled in the grass (yes in, as it’s all wild and natural), draping our wet clothes over bushes and shrubs. We have a good few hours of sunshine on our hands, so we might as well make the most of it. After a nap the iPads and Kobos and Kindles came out. Time for some admin. No internet or cell phone reception in the park, so no communication with the outside world for now.

The ferry will (hopefully) pick us up at 6:35pm and then we will start our three hour bus journey at 8pm. I trust we’d be able to find our way to our hostel in the dark in Puerto Natales.

No matter how today ends, the past four days in Torres Del Paine National Park was and always will be a highlight in our lives.

– Mariza –

4

Eye opening experience

Author: Kali

It was when we were in Santiago, that I realised, that I was very spoilt when I was back home. Everyday items that I always took for granted, now become luxuries. And also, I had to consider that I was in a third world country…

Our accommodation in Santiago was less than -1 star (according to me…). Dad said it was just different than what we were used to. But really, it needed some serious work, pronto! I was already unhappy for having white buns from the supermarket, with some kind of cold meat and cheese for the how-manyeth time that week, so I decided to have egg on my bun instead.  I opened the cupboard to find a dirty, food encrusted pan, with no handle or lid. I was disgusted at this, mumbling how stupid this was, and what sort of place has a dirty pan with no lid or handle?!

I was going through the usual routine of buttering the pan and doing the eggs, when both my eggs broke and stuck to the pan. I was so upset.  I called dad for help, but without a handle to the pan, and dad trying to scrape my eggs from the surface of the pan… This turned my fried eggs, into scrambled eggs. I was furious. When I finally had it scraped off the pan, I didn’t even feel hungry anymore, even though I was ‘starving’ before. I was still forced to eat it, though. This is when I realised… things aren’t like they are at home… I am spoilt.

From then on, throughout my journey, I’ve just kept saying to myself ‘this is not home… it’s the experience…’. It has been hard, though. Especially when you walk into a toilet cubicle and toilet paper and other unknown substances carpet the floor, and you don’t know whether it’s worth entering. But then again comes that voice: ‘it is the experience…’

-Until next time,

– Kali –

9

Punta Arenas

We arrived from Santiago in a grey, cold Punta Arenas – the gateway to Chilean Patagonia. The drive from the airport took us through an industrial area before arriving at our accommodation, a granny flat in a lower class neighbourhood. We were cold to the bone, but too early to check in. Destitute and hungry, we walked with our backpacks to the nearest main road where we found a supermarket. We had our picnic of bread and ham on the sidewalk in front of the supermarket, taking shelter from the icy wind behind a trolley filled with our backpacks. Not the greatest start. A stranger offered to take us home for a hot drink. We declined the offer, but realised that we must be a sorry sight.

After a good night in our modest but comfortable room and an early run through the neighbourhood, we set out to explore Punta Arenas. Our primary focus was to purchase the bus tickets we needed to get to Puerto Natales and the Torres del Paine national park.

The Punta Arenas city centre is a beautiful collection of older buildings centred around an attractive square and tree lined central promenade. It is clearly a tourist gateway, with outdoor equipment stores, travel agencies and hostels found throughout the city. We ventured to a modern mall on the outskirts of the city to stock up on items we would need for lunch during our hike in the national park and to find gloves for the kids. All of this was done by foot, so by the end of the day we had done nearly 15 km’s (excluding our run!).

We left our accommodation early the next morning, walking 3km’s in darkness and waking all the dogs in the neighbourhood as we made our way to the bus terminal and the next leg of our adventure.

– Jarik –

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