Torres del Paine

Author: Mariza

Wow, wow, super WOW!!! Words and pictures cannot do justice to the majesty and glorious, breathtaking beauty of Torres Del Paine.

More than ten years ago, Jarik flew over Torres Del Paine and decided that was something he would love to see with his family one day. Today that dream came true. We were up before six after spending the night under two down duvets. Nice and cosy on our bunk beds. Sunrise is only at eight, so breakfast at seven happened in the blackness of night. A great and wonderful surprise awaited us when we walked out of the cafeteria. The three towers were clearly visible with the most beautiful blue sky around it. This is BEFORE sunrise! All of a sudden I couldn’t wait to get walking.

The day’s journey went from incredible to beyond description. How many wonderful, diverse sights can a person see in just one day??!! I distinctly remember how I wished this journey would never, ever end about two hours into our walk. The incredible sights all around us made me feel like my heart was about to explode.

We walked (climbed for one really challenging stretch) for just over 20km for the day. It took us eight hours, including an hour for lunch at THE most glorious spot. I feel really proud of our kids. Kali 13, Ruzow 11, Eulain 8 and Esto 6 were the only children in the entire park. They out-walked the strongest and fittest of people. Jarik and I were stopped by a good number of VERY impressed people. They could not believe that our kids managed that walk, never mind acing it!

Day two took us around a glorious glacier lake. Ice blue has a whole new meaning to me. I have never seen water so clear and blue and beautiful. The glorious mountains rise up out of the water on every side. On a granite pebble beach we played and got our hands in the water. Definitely too cold for a swim! No sand or mud, only pebbles on the bottom of the crystal clear lake.

A freezing night in a canvas igloo and a toe strangling sleeping bag was an interesting experience. The view over the lake, however, more than made up for any discomfort or chill blisters.

On day three we ventured up a stunning valley. Again I thought it was the most beautiful hike I’ve ever done. We saw our first glacier and experienced the thrill of watching a piece of ice break off with a thunderous noise. We had many, many stream crossings, some more tricky than others. Some of us got our shoes wet and muddy, but there was no time to stop or get upset about it. Upwards and onwards! The other side of the Torres getting ever closer and more glorious.

For three days we walked 20km a day, and most of this either up or down a hill. The incredible sights and ever changing landscapes now forever a precious, priceless memory. The sight of our lodge for our final night in the park, surrounded by mountains on three sides and a lake in the front was a great highlight. It reminded me of boarding school. Food is served from huge containers as we line up with our trays. We fill an entire six bunk bed dorm. The sight of heaters inspired us to wash our only pair of long pants. The heaters never went on. So we did our last day of walking in shorts. Freezing!!

We came up close and personal to a glacier on our final day. The exhilaration of seeing that glorious white glacier as we came up a huge hill – unbelievable!

The first day of April could not pass uneventfully. We ran most of the way – up and down that valley – to have a whole hour for lunch in the sun before catching the 1pm ferry. We saw the 12pm ferry go off in the distance as we made our way to the clearing on the banks of the lake. I noticed it left early. After our picnic we made our way to the jetty to wait for our ferry. Weird that there is still no sign of our approaching ferry and also no other people. And then… April fools!!! The ferry time table changed today. Not that we were even aware of the fact that we’re now in April. We have lost track of dates and days. But on a big brown board in big white letters, our folly gets exposed. There are now only two ferries a day, one at 11:30am (the early 12pm one we saw) and a 6:35pm one. Great!!

We settled in the grass (yes in, as it’s all wild and natural), draping our wet clothes over bushes and shrubs. We have a good few hours of sunshine on our hands, so we might as well make the most of it. After a nap the iPads and Kobos and Kindles came out. Time for some admin. No internet or cell phone reception in the park, so no communication with the outside world for now.

The ferry will (hopefully) pick us up at 6:35pm and then we will start our three hour bus journey at 8pm. I trust we’d be able to find our way to our hostel in the dark in Puerto Natales.

No matter how today ends, the past four days in Torres Del Paine National Park was and always will be a highlight in our lives.

– Mariza –

April 2, 2017 4

Off to Patagonia

So after a short, eventful night, we are on our way to Punta Arenas. Patagonia here we come!!

Esto, our six year old, took a rather serious tumble from his bunk bed around midnight. It took a while to determine the damage, as he held his right eye, blood dripping onto everything. A nasty tear starting in the right hand corner of his right eye and out towards his cheek clearly needed stitches. Fortunately we came well equipped with steri-strips, so Dr Dad did a fabulous job of “stitching” him up. An hour later we were all back in bed, Esto safely on the floor next to me.

All too soon the alarm went off. Time to pack the last now dry laundry bits in our bags and give our little apartment a quick clean. Boiled eggs and buttered bread in hand, we descended the sixteen floors to where Mr Uber loaded us into his little car and safely drove us to the airport. Much more relaxing than our taxi ride in.

By now I think we realise that every airport will entail standing in long lines for a very long time. It amazes me how accepting people seem to be of this. Such incredible patience. I was not gifted with this grace, so I have to exert all my willpower to stay calm and friendly.

Window seats for flying out of Santiago is a must! The city is surrounded by mountains. Add to that a glorious sunrise and you’re set for picture perfection. Left hand side window seats provide one with a breathtakingly beautiful view of snow capped mountains and glacier lakes.

– Mariza –

March 28, 2017 0

Santiago – Day 3

The six of us went for our first run in Chile this morning. Back home our neighbours have grown used to seeing us huffing and puffing up and down those torturous hills every morning. Here in Santiago, however, we were an unusual sight, running through the city streets in single file. We must be the only blue eyed, blonde haired people in the entire city. Locals stared at us, as we stampeded past them with an “Hola!” x6.

It is incredible how many times a day we are confronted with the choice between shaking our heads and giggling or a complete and utter meltdown. So many emotions as we experience the contradiction and reality of life in a third world country. Breakfast this morning just about resulted in the latter for our thirteen year old, as she discovered the best she was going to get with a badly damaged, very dirty pan without a handle or lid, was scrambled eggs. They weren’t going down sunny side up, anyway! Jarik and I chuckle as we constantly realise how spoilt our kids are and how much of an education the next eight months will be for them. Bring on the challenges!!

On a sunny day in an interesting city, exploring is key. If, however, you’ll be landing in freezing conditions the very next day, finding thermals might be of greater importance. So the six of us hopped on a local bus to the biggest and grandest shopping centre in the city. Two busses and a significant walk later, we find ourselves in the centre of the modern first world.

A bit disappointing, I have to admit. It looks like any modern, grandiose shopping centre in any first world country anywhere in the world. It dawned on me that one can actually travel around the globe and only ever find yourself in similar circumstances to your own. There are glamorous hotels and flashy shops in every country. But what a deception! The real heartbeat of a nation can only be felt and heard in and among the “normal” people, in a very real, often not so glamorous environment, where everyday life is celebrated and suffered by the majority of the population.

Santiago has its super modern and affluent areas and its slums. I prefer the latter where catching the eye of a complete stranger results in a precious exchange. May we have eyes to see and hearts to embrace and appreciate the great beauty in the people all around us.

Tomorrow morning, before the crack of dawn, we shall move on to Punta Arenas, down in the southern most tip of Chile. I cannot wait!!

– Mariza –

March 28, 2017 2

Santiago de Chile

Day 1 – Santiago Central

We landed in Santiago before dawn and spent a long two hours in the immigration line. It was just after daybreak by the time we haggled a taxi driver down to the price of the bus fare for the six of us, to drive us into the city (sunrise is only at 7:45am) – we were determined to keep within our shoestring budget from the get go!

Not knowing where to go (we really did not have any time to research or plan our time in Santiago), we asked the taxi driver to drop us in the city centre. He suggested the Central Market, and that is where we started our day of exploring the sights of the city.

The old city centre is a bustling place, even early in the morning. Street vendors sell freshly squeezed fruit juices (we saw a few quickly pack up when the authorities arrived), stall owners pack out their wares and commuters fill the walkways. The city is dotted with stand-up coffee bars where tightly clad ladies serve the morning stimulant to their customers. Ours were served with glass of sparkling water on the side.

A marching band was cause of great excitement as we seemed to be just at the right place at the right time for a parade and ceremonial military drill. We explored the tree lined pedestrian malls and ended up having fresh “marguetta’s” for lunch in the Plaza del Armas – a beautiful city square.

After carrying our backpacks through the streets lined with ornate historical buildings for seven hours, we could finally check in at our airbnb apartment. By this time we have started to seriously reconsider the content of our backpacks! We were ready to crash and sleep for a week. Although the apartment was not the best that we’ve been in, it was on the 16th floor of 26 – and from that position we could hear the whole building echo with the cheer of passionate fans living the Chile vs. Argentina football match! What an experience. Sadly Chile was not the victor.

Day 2 – Barrio Yungay

We decided to venture off the beaten tourist circuit and explored Santiago’s Barrio Yungay. We were the only visible tourists in the area during the five hours that we explored the borough. The area is an eclectic mix of dilapidated buildings, street art and surprisingly artistic cafes and eateries. We stumbled across a lively local street market packed with oversized fruit and vegetables. The colour and contrasts make this a charming area. Behind some of the tattered façades are unexpectedly beautiful interiors. People are very friendly and welcoming. We also had our first taste of Chilean empenadas – the local version of a good pie.